The recipe

Peel and halve 250g of small shallots, slice through the root, then separate into layers. Using a very sharp knife, score 2 large duck breasts several times, cutting through the skin, but not so deeply that you cut into the flesh.

Warm a frying pan over a moderately high heat, place the duck breasts skin-side down in the pan, pressing firmly with a spatula for the first minute, then leave them to cook for 8 minutes. As the fat starts to melt, add the shallots, turn the breast over and brown the underside, then continue cooking for 5 minutes.

Remove the duck breasts from the pan and place them on a warm plate, then cover loosely with foil and leave to rest. Continue cooking the shallots until they are soft and deep gold, then sprinkle a little sugar over them. Let the sugar lightly caramelise, then pour in 1 tbsp of red wine vinegar and the juice of 1 small blood orange.

Cut 150g of chard stems into 2cm lengths. Add them to the shallots and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, turning them in the pan juices until they start to soften. Slice the duck into thick pieces, then return briefly to the pan, tossing with the chard and shallots.

The trick

To get the duck skin crisp, dry the surface with kitchen paper (it will steam and fail to crisp if it is wet) and salt it lightly, then lower it into the preheated pan. Press firmly down at first with a palette knife or fish slice then, once the skin starts to blister and crisp, turn it over.

The twist

Chicken will work instead of duck, but you will need to cook the breast right through rather than to pink in the middle. Check for doneness by inserting a skewer into the thickest part and checking the juices run clear rather than pink. In place of the chard, a stalk or 2 of celery can be used, or any of the kale family.

Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @NigelSlater